# Get Out And Explore! > Tech Section >  What skid plate is better for what the trails usually have? 1/4" aluminum 3/16" steel

## Fourwheeling02

I have a 2019 sport tacoma. Had no plans initially to take it off road, those plans have changed. I use this truck as my daily so I see the benefit of the aluminum strictly on the weight issue. If I were to get aluminum even though it's the weaker metal would it still hold up on the trails compared to steel? Thanks in advance.

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## ecgreen

Steel fir me. it bends and you wont notice the weight

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## Fourwheeling02

> Steel fir me. it bends and you wont notice the weight


I was more worried about weight for MPG reasons not the truck being physically heavy

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## ecgreen

> I was more worried about weight for MPG reasons not the truck being physically heavy


I can't imagine it would be that much of an issue. Tire size would make much more of a difference MPG-wise. Tyler what do you think?

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## Lumpskie

1/4" aluminum will fold like a tin can without a lot of reinforcement.

I agree with ECGreen.  I added front, IFS, Belly and gas tank skids to my tacoma... all steel.  I didn't see any noticeable difference in MPG.  RS2 and I went aluminum on the Land Cruiser.  We used much more reinforcement to prevent bending and we used rivets, where possible, to maintain strength.  More thought has to go into building an aluminum skid... especially if you have a long wheel base, low slung vehicle like a 2nd or 3rd gen tacoma.  Long story short, I would go steel unless you have the expertise to be sure the aluminum is adequately reinforced for use.

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## Fourwheeling02

> 1/4" aluminum will fold like a tin can without a lot of reinforcement.
> 
> I agree with ECGreen.  I added front, IFS, Belly and gas tank skids to my tacoma... all steel.  I didn't see any noticeable difference in MPG.  RS2 and I went aluminum on the Land Cruiser.  We used much more reinforcement to prevent bending and we used rivets, where possible, to maintain strength.  More thought has to go into building an aluminum skid... especially if you have a long wheel base, low slung vehicle like a 2nd or 3rd gen tacoma.  Long story short, I would go steel unless you have the expertise to be sure the aluminum is adequately reinforced for use.


Thanks for the info. I was looking into buying rci metalworks skidplates and rock sliders but I saw they made aluminum and steel, the aluminium being a few hundred cheaper and weighing less I didnt know what would be better. Would you recommend any other brand of skid plates?

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## Lumpskie

> Thanks for the info. I was looking into buying rci metalworks skidplates and rock sliders but I saw they made aluminum and steel, the aluminium being a few hundred cheaper and weighing less I didnt know what would be better. Would you recommend any other brand of skid plates?


I built my own skids with a buddy.  But, I've heard good things about RCI.  When I had my Taco, Budbuilt was considered top quality... heavy and expensive but top quality.

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## mtyler11

This feels..... familiar...   maybe its just deja vu.

First and MOST IMPORTANT is a realistic assessment of intended usage.  This will inform ALL OTHER decisions.

-disclaimer-  I have a Nissan Frontier.  Similar but not 100% same.  Supply chains is different.  

As to your thoughts on weight:  My first set of skids were 1/4 AL from HeftyFabworks.  Intended to just do easy offroading.  2" lift.  Not go crazy....  I wheel the piss out of the Frontier.  Front bumper&winch, rear bumper, sliders, skids, 3"lift, 33s, ....
AL skits are featherlight, but all that weight (or lack of) is distributed across all 4 wheels.  Also, you're saving ... 250#?  200#?  I forget howmuch Chris (HeftyFab) said their shipping weight of a full skid set for me was.  But the weight difference between steel and AL is about 100#.  If you are THAT concerned about weight, ditch the spare tire.  And the back seats.  and the rear bumper.  Don't add a winch bumper... (see where we're going?)  OH, And don't lift it.  Aerodrag will sap mpg FAR GREATER than 100-200# skids.  And keep the chin spoiler as you install a lowering kit...

-Don't sweat the weight.  It was a major flaw in my initial thinking!
     I have since replaced the engine skid and gas tank skid for steel.  Both were concave (!!!!!) when removed.  The radiator skid will be next.  transmission&transfer case will probably be ok to stay AL.


If you want to 'overland' and a slight lift (1") and will only be doing STOCK roads and fire roads then whatever makes you feel good.  But likely if you've been bitten, you will want to go hard.  3" lift, 33s, and find teh limits of all the pieces...
pay the pain only once.
Yes steel requires more maintenance (rust/paint touchup) but they are sturdy.  easier to straighten out.  just put some heat into them and whack with a hammer... every mechanic worth their salt can work steel.  Not everyone can work AL. (familiarity)

!!!  COST  !!!    AL skids cost more.  They deform easier.  If you punish them, they'll require extensive rework.  I have an engine skid that more resembles a Skottle...  One of these days I may attempt to re-anneal it and flatten it... then try to figure what to do with it...

BUMPER...  This is where you can save some serious weight and it makes some sense to go AL.  An AL winch bumper (for nissans) runs about 65# (I installed mine by myself and didn't even throw out my back)...  Same winch bumper design, from same fab (Hefty) is 225# or more... now add a winch.  Thats alot of weight supported JUST by your front suspension.  When coming off a rock or ledge, the nose will bob alot more.  Most Nissans will run a 600# spring in front with an AL bumper, and a 7-750# spring for steel.  and get the same ride quality.  


I can't stress enough the pain of repairing damage because you went light on an area that sees heavy abuse.  AND the pain of re-buying... and the WAIT!!!!!  (I'm so jealouse of how easy jeeps have it on parts)

On nissans, the critical parts is the engine skid, gas tank skid, radiator (in that order)  transmission/transfer case need skids but not as bad.  Unless you are learning where all your soft bits are located and how to pick a line...  then they will see more abuse.

The only good argument for AL is mounting/removal weight, and rust maintenance.  The AL engine skid I could put on with 1 hand, and thread in the bolts with the other.  With teh steel, I need the floor jack.  and sometimes the bottle jack.  just so it doesn't slap me in the head and give me an impromptu nap on the concrete.

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## mtyler11

> Thanks for the info. I was looking into buying rci metalworks skidplates and rock sliders but I saw they made aluminum and steel, the aluminium being a few hundred cheaper and weighing less I didnt know what would be better. Would you recommend any other brand of skid plates?



Their AL skids are CHEAPER?!

I had to go look...


nope, steel is cheaper by $200 (full skid pkg).  powder-coat vs powder-coat.  

Aluminum CAN corrode and dissimilar metal corrosion is a bear.  Gotta keep 'em separated...

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## Fourwheeling02

> This feels..... familiar...   maybe its just deja vu.
> 
> First and MOST IMPORTANT is a realistic assessment of intended usage.  This will inform ALL OTHER decisions.
> 
> -disclaimer-  I have a Nissan Frontier.  Similar but not 100% same.  Supply chains is different.  
> 
> As to your thoughts on weight:  My first set of skids were 1/4 AL from HeftyFabworks.  Intended to just do easy offroading.  2" lift.  Not go crazy....  I wheel the piss out of the Frontier.  Front bumper&winch, rear bumper, sliders, skids, 3"lift, 33s, ....
> AL skits are featherlight, but all that weight (or lack of) is distributed across all 4 wheels.  Also, you're saving ... 250#?  200#?  I forget howmuch Chris (HeftyFab) said their shipping weight of a full skid set for me was.  But the weight difference between steel and AL is about 100#.  If you are THAT concerned about weight, ditch the spare tire.  And the back seats.  and the rear bumper.  Don't add a winch bumper... (see where we're going?)  OH, And don't lift it.  Aerodrag will sap mpg FAR GREATER than 100-200# skids.  And keep the chin spoiler as you install a lowering kit...
> 
> ...


Holy hell that's a lot of information. Thank you so much for the write up! I knew the weight different wasnt incredibly drastic but didn't know if saving it with the AL would be better on gas. I knew the issues with aluminum cutting and shredding rather than denting and bouncing like steel skids do. I had a feeling steel was going to be the better decision but didnt know if I could get away with the weight difference with the al skids. It's basically a large person sitting in the car at all times in difference I guess right. Thank you again so much for the write up and on the status of bumpers if I upgrade mine I plan on doing the slimline bumper for 3rd gen tacomas. It wont take the entire bumper which will also save the weight. Lift of about 2 or 3 inches is a plan in 2+ years from now, I'm not made of money haha. Thank you again!

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## Fourwheeling02

> Their AL skids are CHEAPER?!
> 
> I had to go look...
> 
> 
> nope, steel is cheaper by $200 (full skid pkg).  powder-coat vs powder-coat.  
> 
> Aluminum CAN corrode and dissimilar metal corrosion is a bear.  Gotta keep 'em separated...


Yeah I mistyped, that's my bad

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## Sloth

Get full steel. The rci ones are nice. I had a full set minus gas tank skid from RCI. They held up nicely to abuse. Weight down low isn't going to effect much. It's when you lift, start strapping hundreds of pounds of useless nonsense to your roof (for the gram, yo...) That you start to drastically effect mpg, handling, etc...

A full set of steel skids is probably equal to or less than the weight of a average person. Effects would be less than having a fatty riding along in the truck 24/7

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## ecgreen

> This feels..... familiar...   maybe its just deja vu.
> 
> First and MOST IMPORTANT is a realistic assessment of intended usage.  This will inform ALL OTHER decisions.
> 
> -disclaimer-  I have a Nissan Frontier.  Similar but not 100% same.  Supply chains is different.  
> 
> As to your thoughts on weight:  My first set of skids were 1/4 AL from HeftyFabworks.  Intended to just do easy offroading.  2" lift.  Not go crazy....  I wheel the piss out of the Frontier.  Front bumper&winch, rear bumper, sliders, skids, 3"lift, 33s, ....
> AL skits are featherlight, but all that weight (or lack of) is distributed across all 4 wheels.  Also, you're saving ... 250#?  200#?  I forget howmuch Chris (HeftyFab) said their shipping weight of a full skid set for me was.  But the weight difference between steel and AL is about 100#.  If you are THAT concerned about weight, ditch the spare tire.  And the back seats.  and the rear bumper.  Don't add a winch bumper... (see where we're going?)  OH, And don't lift it.  Aerodrag will sap mpg FAR GREATER than 100-200# skids.  And keep the chin spoiler as you install a lowering kit...
> 
> ...



Now that is a proper Tyler post. Well done!

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## mtyler11

> Now that is a proper Tyler post. Well done!


I left some points out for brevity...

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## mtyler11

> Holy hell that's a lot of information. ...


yea.... i can get long-winded... and wrapped about the axle.... sorry....   lol

Always keep in mind when adding things its location and how it mounts.  Bumper being classic case. 
One other point i forgot is gvwr.  All these fun parts cut into payload.  Better springs and brakes help claw some of that back.  But frame, axles and physics are hard stops.  Solid axles have a seperate rating that is usually easy to find.  Frame not so much.  And physics is universal.  Try a panic lanechange or braking when fully loaded, especially if you have a rtt...  as CG gains in height, ....

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## Rubicon

Aluminum is not necessarily "weaker" than some mild steels. Low quality steel will give before good aluminum.
Weight taxes everything, including MPG's, and costly lift height.
Aluminum is always lighter(even at thicker sizes) and does not rust, so needs no paint, nor repainting.

Thus my advice with overall cost in mind, which consists of initial buy-in and future maintenance(time/supplies to remove rust and paint, again and again and again...):
Steel below(ie skids) because it's cheaper and looks don't matter, since it is not seen.
Aluminum above(eg bumpers and such) because it won't rust, which will be better looking cosmetically speaking, and will save some overall weight from adding steel skids.

I hope this helps and wish you good luck with whatever you decide :)

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