# Get Out And Explore! > Tech Section >  2012 JK Track Bar replacement advice

## bob

Quick note, looking for track bar replacement advice, not replacement track bar advice. I have a Mopar one, figure if the OE bushings lasted nearly 150k miles no reason not to use them again.
Deep Creep has been applied twice since last weekend. 
I have the new bar and all new hardware-2 bolts, a hex nut and a flange nut. The flange is a bit odd because I don't actually see a flange currently on the passenger side, but I haven't got right down into it to verify.
I have an electric impact, but it looks like things might be tight to use one? Doing this on the ground, not a lift. Should I jack the frame for improved access? Or is there enough room to get the gun in there?
Will torque bolts under load of course. And doing full alignment next Friday anyway. I know when we installed my 2" Rancho Sport lift 3 years ago the wheel barely went out of line and was driveable, so I figure the wheel will go barely at all out of line for this, if at all.
Any suggestions appreciated, bolts came loose no problem 3 years ago but it has been 100k miles since then of New England salt winters, so hoping for the best.
TIA

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## Rubicon

Those bolts are big and hard, so there should be no issue with breaking them free Bob, especially if you have been using penetrating fluid on them.

Don't lift it, as it will be more difficult to remove the bolts, and _way_ harder to install.

Absolutely no alignment is needed for a fix length stock replacement.

I am out of town today, but please feel free to call or email, if you need more advise, as I can hopefully be of some help.

Wish you best of luck and hope all goes well.

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## bob

> Those bolts are big and hard, so there should be no issue with breaking them free Bob, especially if you have been using penetrating fluid on them.
> 
> Don't lift it, as it will be more difficult to remove the bolts, and _way_ harder to install.
> 
> Absolutely no alignment is needed for a fix length stock replacement.
> 
> I am out of town today, but please feel free to call or email, if you need more advise, as I can hopefully be of some help.
> 
> Wish you best of luck and hope all goes well.


Thanks Shawn, much appreciated. They are much rustier than when we tore it apart last for sure lol. And that had been my assumption on the oe for oe replacement as well. This is one the dealer really puts the screws to you- they want 2.5 hours flat rate. 

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## Rubicon

Another tip(s): do not turn the steering wheel once disconnected! To help take out any "scrub", drive absolutely straight forward and back a couple of times before you start to remove any bolts. Once you go to put the second/last bolt in the new bar, if it is not lining up at all for some reason, have someone slowly turn the steering wheel one way or the other(depending on which way you need it to go) until it does.

Let me know if you need another pair of hands ;)

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## bob

> Another tip(s): do not turn the steering wheel once disconnected! To help take out any "scrub", drive absolutely straight forward and back a couple of times before you start to remove any bolts. Once you go to put the second/last bolt in the new bar, if it is not lining up at all for some reason, have someone slowly turn the steering wheel one way or the other(depending on which way you need it to go) until it does.
> 
> Let me know if you need another pair of hands ;)


Thanks for the offer, much appreciated!
The bolts lined right up, no issues at all. Needed ramps to get enough oomph for removal though.

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## Rubicon

> Thanks for the offer, much appreciated!
> The bolts lined right up, no issues at all. Needed ramps to get enough oomph for removal though.


 :Thumbsup:

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