# Get Out And Explore! > Tech Section >  Traction control lights on dash

## BlackDiamond

So.   Got the little flutter and the lights came on.  Not the abs lights , just the traction control lights. Reset them, they came back on when I hit the Highway again.  My overall steering is a little loose or drifts how ever you wish to describe it.   I replaced abs sensor to eliminate that possibility anyway. But..
Any other suggestions?    Steering ball joints are good. How do you check if the steering stabilizer is good ? Do they go bad?  What else could it be?  Thank you forum friends.   Kevin

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## Dogbreath077

Definitely check for a code.  If there is a code for an erratic signal, then check the wheel bearing on that wheel.

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## Rubicon

Steering stabilizer is not even needed if everything is good, so that won't matter. However they do indeed get worn-out with age, like shocks. Erin still has her stock one is well over ~110k miles and is still good, though we do have an upgrade waiting ;)

Reads like the steering wheel might not be centered?
Did you do just replace one ABS sensor?

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## bob

Agree with Shawn. These things are super sensitive to steering wheel alignment. The center of the wheel needs to be pretty close to horizontal when going in a straight line. 
Mine haf a similar issue and it was because the trac bar bushings were thrashed. Any time I crossed to the left hand side of a crowned road, such as passing on a two lane road, it would set off my sensor, but nnever a code. 

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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## J&J

Also agree with Shawn. It's surprisingly sensitive. Even when I thought I had the steering wheel perfectly leveled, after having pulled perfectly straight in, I'd drive it and find it's still a bit off, sometimes causing the light to go on. The AEV ProCal has a setting whereby you can make adjustments and the horn will beep when the computer thinks the wheel is straight.  I don't know if any other calibrators have this feature. It isn't required, but it's super helpful if you're adjusting by yourself and it's certainly been more accurate than my observations.

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## Rubicon

> Also agree with Shawn. It's surprisingly sensitive. Even when I thought I had the steering wheel perfectly leveled, after having pulled perfectly straight in, I'd drive it and find it's still a bit off, sometimes causing the light to go on. The AEV ProCal has a setting whereby you can make adjustments and the horn will beep when the computer thinks the wheel is straight.  I don't know if any other calibrators have this feature. It isn't required, but it's super helpful if you're adjusting by yourself and it's certainly been more accurate than my observations.


Have used that feature in the AEV ProCal and it does indeed make that adjustment much faster plus easier than the trial and error method.

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## BlackDiamond

Really awesome comments thanks!!!!   Ironic, I have that AEV module.  Will work on that next.  Yes my wheel is a little off, could very well be this.   I will let you know.

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## Rubicon

> Really awesome comments thanks!!!!   Ironic, I have that AEV module.  Will work on that next.  Yes my wheel is a little off, could very well be this.   I will let you know.


Please do! Hopefully I am correct. If your wheel is visually off, then that what it probably is than. Wish you good luck :)

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## BlackDiamond

I thing better than having no one to help and realizing I can video what is happening when the wheel turns.  Duh!  No excuses, I should have addressed this sooner.  Look at this fine 2 second video.  Lol.  
does anyone suggest a good upgrade with out being ridiculous for a new knuckle. I think I would upgrade it rather than an oem replacement.   I already have upgraded ball joints.  So now I am moving onto knuckles.   What do you all think?    
*it would appear that I cant upload a video, maybe the blurry screen shot will convey motion without the wheel moving.  Lol.  Yup!  I think it is egged out.

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## Rubicon

Someone did not torque down that tie-rod end enough, so it is probably too late now :/

Probably the least expensive way to go for part replacement wise, would be a used outer steering knuckle, or a new one even. That way you are not having to buy a _pair_of aftermarket upgrades.

However, a non machining repair could also be done. I have had this stuff from Bowman, made by Loctite, that is a Make-A-Metal press repair(No. 22008). Not sure if it is still any good, as it is so old now. Also not sure if they even make this anymore, but I bet they make something similar. It mends worn metal parts by sticking to clean vertical surfaces(unlike other liquid metal repair formulas), and allows assembly, with 10-30 minutes to fixture, 1-2 hours to fully cure. The strength is stated to often double that of a press fit.

Another similar option is to use JB Weld to build up the egged out hole. Then you would have to ream the hole back to original size and taper. I have seen the ability to turn that stuff down on a round shaft with a lathe, so I know it is possible. Plus they state that is actually can be machined down on the packaging.

Hope this helps and wish you a Merry Christmas!

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