# Get Out And Explore! > Tech Section >  JK Sway Bar Disconnect Suggestions Please!!! :)

## vballman

Hey guys so finally gonna get some sway bar discos. I added the Bushwacker Flat Fenders for the added room, now want the articulation to go with it. Here's the dilemma I am facing. I would like to buy these just once as I am stock now and looking to lift to a 2-2.5" lift and don't want to have buy it a second time. Hope this is something I can accomplish. So.... anyone got any suggestions?

Here are some pics of the added fenders just for fun :)

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## Rubicon

Congratulations on the new "flenders" and flares!

Erin has Steinjager and they are good, except they "click" when going over uneven bumps, so she wants to get my favorite disco, which is Teraflex and has been on almost all my rigs over the years. Most people go with JKS though, and they do have an adjustable range with a threaded section to be able to adapt to different lifts and future modifications to height.
Oh and the Steinjager she has are adjustable as well, plus they will be up for sale soon(if you don't mind the noise ;)

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## Ivoryring

I ran the JKS quick disconnects on my JKU. They do have an adjustment range, but my recollection is that it doesn't cover going from stock to 2.5" lift. 

My suggestion: Until you get your lift, just carry two 18mm wrenches and manually pull the bottom connection on the disconnect and zip tie the sway bar and disconnect up to the frame.

I actually didn't really like the JKS quick disconnects - because they are greased, they end up making a mess every time you pull them off or reinstall them.

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## FSHJNKY

Get an Anti-Rock

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## bob

> Get an Anti-Rock


Never understood this. Worst of both worlds. Limits off road flex (might be a good thing there at times), but doesn't perform well on the road, allowing sway, particularly on lifted vehicles. And correct me if I am wrong, but are you supposed to also remove the rear to run the Antirock?

Can you verify this is a worthwhile upgrade for someone who DD's? Not sure the OP does, but it seems there ought to be some sort of qualifying statement made for these.

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## Mach2NH

Sway bar?    :Confused:

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## ecgreen

> Sway bar?


lol

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## Rubicon

> Never understood this. Worst of both worlds. Limits off road flex (might be a good thing there at times), but doesn't perform well on the road, allowing sway, particularly on lifted vehicles. And correct me if I am wrong, but are you supposed to also remove the rear to run the Antirock? Can you verify this is a worthwhile upgrade for someone who DD's? Not sure the OP does, but it seems there ought to be some sort of qualifying statement made for these.


They are for the typical lazy American :p






> Sway bar?





> lol


Haha!

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## vballman

> They are for the typical lazy American :p


That's why I don't want to do it manually with two wrenches, LOL! 

I was looking at Teraflex and JKS, but didn't look like they did stock to 2.5" lift range. Ugh! I may just have to buy it twice, booooooo!!!! LOL

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## Rubicon

> That's why I don't want to do it manually with two wrenches, LOL!
> 
> I was looking at Teraflex and JKS, but didn't look like they did stock to 2.5" lift range. Ugh! I may just have to buy it twice, booooooo!!!! LOL


Haha! I was referring to the Antirock that Bob mentioned. In my opinion, those are really for the tall and soft/slinky off road only rigs that still want some anti-roll protection.

Ya I think Teraflex starts there, but I am surprised JKS does not have something. I know the Rough Country one states 0-2.5", because I was trying to get her to save money by buying them, as they are only $80. They are indeed adjustable, but have a flimsy frame mount, and are not greasable, which is what Erin didn't like(I taught her well ;) However, there is really nothing to need constant greasing there. The lower end is a shock style polyurethane bushing, and the top is a tie-rod style end, so that boot can be manually removed to grease if need be, or just get a needle fitting for your grease gun.

FYI: Her "Little Bear" JK has a 2" lift in the front.

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## FSHJNKY

> They are for the typical lazy American :p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha!


Enough with the derogatory comments. Many people run the anti-rock. It may offer slightly less flex than being fully disconnected, however some people including myself and many other ENH members would rather not climb under a dirty Jeep dripping with trail residue to reconnect their end links. The anti-rock is a good mix of on and off road performance and you can make the links longer to allow for more flex. It has nothing to do with being lazy. Whether you agree with the anti-rock or not, comments like this arent helpful to new or existing members and make ENH look bad.

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## FSHJNKY

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/...rformance.197/

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## J&J

Rancho has a setup covering 0-6 inches by making use of relocation brackets.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/ranch...-rs62113b.html

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## BlueberryHill

> Sway bar?


 :Cheers2:

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## BlueberryHill

> https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/...rformance.197/


The most helpful part of this article is the explanation of the concept of "useful flex". I've mentioned that before while working on a flipped shackle...  :Ahhhhh:

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## FSHJNKY

> The most helpful part of this article is the explanation of the concept of "useful flex". I've mentioned that before while working on a flipped shackle...



Yeah I liked that explanation as well.

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## bob

> Enough with the derogatory comments. Many people run the anti-rock. It may offer *slightly less flex than being fully disconnected*, however some people including myself and many other ENH members would rather not climb under a dirty Jeep dripping with trail residue to reconnect their end links. *The anti-rock is a good mix of on and off road performance* and you can make the links longer to allow for more flex. It has nothing to do with being lazy. Whether you agree with the anti-rock or not, comments like this arent helpful to new or existing members and make ENH look bad.





> The most helpful part of this article is the explanation of the concept of* "useful flex"*. I've mentioned that before while working on a flipped shackle...


This is what I was referencing in my post, that it *can* be good to limit flex off road, and they do keep you from going 100%. But also, they are not a good "mix" because they offer really nothing on road except a modicum of restraint, particularly for a lifted vehicle. (Yes, I do know we ran without them for MANY years. On leaf springs.)
I wanted to point that out for those who DD their vehicle, and I don't think a lot of people who buy them take it into account. If you are mostly off road with the occasional road trip then hell yeah, great option. But for the weekend warrior? meh, not so much.

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## Rubicon

> Haha! I was referring to the Antirock that Bob mentioned. In my opinion, those are really for the tall and soft/slinky off road only rigs that still want some anti-roll protection.





> Enough with the derogatory comments. Many people run the anti-rock. It may offer slightly less flex than being fully disconnected, however some people including myself and many other ENH members would rather not climb under a dirty Jeep dripping with trail residue to reconnect their end links. The anti-rock is a good mix of on and off road performance and you can make the links longer to allow for more flex. It has nothing to do with being lazy. Whether you agree with the anti-rock or not, comments like this arent helpful to new or existing members and make ENH look bad.


Sorry I have offended you personally Paul. I think you might have missed my "stinking tongue out" face. And the "Haha" in response to Peter's comment. Plus you also do know that I am joking around a little, per usual. Most of us remember what that is, before CV19. I am not flaming any one person or company. I have no issue with those type of sway-bar systems.

Please don't forget that many other people do indeed actually "climb" under their vehicle(not just Jeeps) to reconnect and/or work on something. I understand some people cannot physically or just simply don't want to get dirty, but they probably would not have disconnects either, for that exact reason. I personally don't like mud(hate actually), as most of you know, but getting dirty is a part of wheeling, since it is almost unavoidable sometimes.

And if a new or existing members reads my many posts(14k+), they will usually find that I try to help when I can and make the time to recognize newbies. Sure sometimes I am a little sarcastic, as lot of us are. However this is a forum, just like all the others, not an professional article meant to be set in stone or made a bible. It is a place of opinions. And I am pretty sure that I have helped make ENH look very GOOD for a long time(pretty much since the beginning), as I have been here a while and do a lot to assist so many members, on and off-line.

Thank you for reading and appreciating all that I do and have done. I hope you understand and wish you well. Stay healthy my friend.
~Shawn

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## vballman

I have eyed the anti-rock and have read they are ok on the road, but since it is my DD for the for a bit longer, I am still unsure going that route. Plus the cost is a bit of a deterrent right now. Still amazed I paid that much for plastic fenders LOL. I have thought of getting a cheap set (cost wise) like the Rough Country and getting a nicer set after the lift (Tera or JKS). Is that really worth it for the stock runs or should I just stick with what I have and if need be use the 2 wrench method and get it after the lift?

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## bob

> I have eyed the anti-rock and have read they are ok on the road, but since it is my DD for the for a bit longer, I am still unsure going that route. Plus the cost is a bit of a deterrent right now. Still amazed I paid that much for plastic fenders LOL. I have thought of getting a cheap set (cost wise) like the Rough Country and getting a nicer set after the lift (Tera or JKS). Is that really worth it for the stock runs or should I just stick with what I have and if need be use the 2 wrench method and get it after the lift?


Buy once, cry once. May as well stick to the 2 wrench method for now, if at all honestly, and buy discos when you are where you want it. IMO on stock runs you don't need to disco. Sure it leans a little but likely you won't get a situation where you need it. Just me though. And with JK and it's BLD system you can probably overcome the rare wheel lift.
I have the JKS ones on my JK because they were great on my TJ. However, though the links are great for the JK, the set up sucks thanks to Jeep. Having to remove the links and strap the bar is stupid. IIRC, there is a brand that has a work around for that, don't recall of course, but if I did it over I would get those. 
As to the Antirock, not for me. I drive 25k miles plus each year. Once you get into all the added weight of skids, bumpers, tires, and the fact 90% of people don't upgrade brakes when they add all this extra weight and you have a recipe for disaster for a DD, at least for a DD that gets as many miles as mine. Just my opinion of course. But offroad I think they are great most of the time, and you would be hard pressed to find they limit your driving offroad over full disco.

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## Tubadeuce

Just to make everything more complicated, I have seen a product offering from Off Road Only that seems to solve the issues with the Antirock for daily use. The Swayloc is a torsion bar setup just like the Antirock, but it uses a latch (either manual or air-operated) to achieve the off-road torsion setup. By reengaging the latch, it is then stiff like a traditional sway bar. On-road you have a traditional setup, and with the flick of a switch, you have an Antirock type swaybar for off-road. Seems like the best of both worlds to me, but the catch is cost. It is more expensive than an Antirock, and for the air model, even more so. Just throwing it out there as another option (for the record, my TJ has JKS QD links, and I like them).

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

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## Rubicon

> ...Plus the cost is a bit of a deterrent right now. Still amazed I paid that much for plastic fenders LOL. I have thought of getting a cheap set (cost wise) like the Rough Country and getting a nicer set after the lift (Tera or JKS). Is that really worth it for the stock runs or should I just stick with what I have and if need be use the 2 wrench method and get it after the lift?


I hear ya about the cost!

RC always comes in at "price point". One could always upgrade their frame mount hangers, which are still way better than having to deal with what Bob stated--needing to strap/bungee the links up after disconnecting. The upgrade would still be less expensive than the other options out there.

Disconnecting is definitely worth it on a solid axle Jeep with coil springs. The difference is amazing! Especially on a short wheelbase 2-door. Less spinning = less erosion, more traction, added stability(LCG), and even a better ride, are all worth the benefits in my book ;)

Just look at how well Erin's "Little Bear" JK 2-door did on the run up here. She aced the day! The others did not do quite as well, even with more experience. Well except for one downed tree I told her to 'give it a try', but that was clearance not articulation :p

Hope this helps and wish you luck with whatever way you decide to go :)

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## vballman

Thanks guys, there has been a lot of good info tossed out there and I am still sorting it out. I just need the lottery lol.

The Swayloc does sound like a great option, definitely would help with the DD that I have. I do drive around 25k as well so it definitely would be the better option. 

Ugh, this I thought would be an easier decision. I definitely would like the added articulation though it may not be needed on the stock runs, but would make it easier. Kinda like having lockers. Do you need them, no but would make it easier. So that is where I am coming from. I'll be sure to update what I decide. It's what I get with the stimulus, rest off to bills. Wife gets something she wants for the kitchen, so it was our compromise LOL!

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## Rubicon

> Thanks guys, there has been a lot of good info tossed out there and I am still sorting it out. I just need the lottery lol.
> 
> The Swayloc does sound like a great option, definitely would help with the DD that I have. I do drive around 25k as well so it definitely would be the better option. 
> 
> Ugh, this I thought would be an easier decision. I definitely would like the added articulation though it may not be needed on the stock runs, but would make it easier. Kinda like having lockers. Do you need them, no but would make it easier. So that is where I am coming from. I'll be sure to update what I decide. It's what I get with the stimulus, rest off to bills. Wife gets something she wants for the kitchen, so it was our compromise LOL!


Life is full of compromise!

I would also like to hit the lottery. Just a part of it will suffice ;)

With added articulation, *much* more expensive lockers will be needed less. You can always use more flex, even on "stock" runs, and lockers are rarely needed(more so in deep snow or on actual harder rock crawling runs). It also helps prevent unneeded stress and wear on some components, sort of like airing down.

I have to admit that the SwayLoc would be an option to go from totally disconnected to connected, but $800+ is a lot more than the $80 RC discos!
RockLock seems to be even easier and less expensive than the ORO, but no JK application?

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## LJ Rubicon

I have been using anti rock for couple years now. They do have some adjustment I set mine on second hole from the back and love the way it handles off road compared to being disconnected. Body roll is gone but still articulates great. Mine is not a daily but sees a fair amount of time on pavement and am perfectly happy with how it handles. And also no more connecting and disconnecting is great as well.
Good luck whichever way you decide.

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## vballman

> Life is full of compromise!
> I have to admit that the SwayLoc would be an option to go from totally disconnected to connected, but $800+ is a lot more than the $80 RC discos!
> RockLock seems to be even easier and less expensive than the ORO, but no JK application?


LOL, yes life is for sure! I watched a few videos on the SwayLoc and if I had the funds, I definitely would go that route as it's exactly what I'd want. Even the AntiRocks are great but for the price at this point and the DD use, I don't see them in the future either. Gonna sit with the budget and figure out exactly when I can do the lift and go from there. If it's gonna be a longer than I'd like I just may go the RC for now as they are cheap enough to allow the gains and then once lift is set get a better pair matched to the new height. That's what I am leaning to no since there don't have exactly what I am looking for unless I drop the big bucks I wish I had. 

Thanks again for everyone's input it's been very helpful!!!!

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## Rubicon

> LOL, yes life is for sure! I watched a few videos on the SwayLoc and if I had the funds, I definitely would go that route as it's exactly what I'd want. Even the AntiRocks are great but for the price at this point and the DD use, I don't see them in the future either. Gonna sit with the budget and figure out exactly when I can do the lift and go from there. If it's gonna be a longer than I'd like I just may go the RC for now as they are cheap enough to allow the gains and then once lift is set get a better pair matched to the new height. That's what I am leaning to no since there don't have exactly what I am looking for unless I drop the big bucks I wish I had. Thanks again for everyone's input it's been very helpful!!!!


Erin just ordered the RC ones from Quadratec yesterday. We will report back after install ;)

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## vballman

> Erin just ordered the RC ones from Quadratec yesterday. We will report back after install ;)


Excellent, I wanna hear all about it!

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## Rubicon

> Excellent, I wanna hear all about it!


Okay, I finally made time to install them...

Story: Erin has a leveling lift kit(2" front, 1" rear) and these were only listed for a 2.5" lift. However one site stated 0-2.5" and another 2.25"-3.75". So I figured it was close enough.

Lacking adequate hardware: Kit strangely came with two extra nuts, but not enough washers(in my opinion). So I added one per side on the actual sway-bar to keep the tie-rod style end from sinking into it(supplied flange nut on the other end), and one on each side of the axle bracket for the mounting pins. Thus adding 6 washers total(3 on each side).
Plus the relocation mounts for when disconnected are not left and right specific, as they are only made one way, so they need to be flipped upside down on the opposite side :(

Mounting relocation tabs: I used one size smaller(1/4") rather than the instructed 17/64" drill bit. I had it, but wanted a tighter fit for the semi self tapping bolts provided. I used red thread locker on them as well(not instructed).

Adjustment: I went as short as allowable, which was 9" C-C. 10" end-end was instructed, but impossible as the shortest possible overall length was 10.25"). For a reference, we had the Steinhaeger ones set at 7" C-C. Used blue thread locker externally here(not instructed). I used anti-seize compound(please do the same) on both the adjustment and mounting threads(again, not instructed ;)

Finished results: The passenger/right side barely clears the steering stabilizer bracket to install link on pin, and the steering needs to be near straight to swing the end link up-down.
And the angle of the anti-roll bar is higher at more like 9:30/2:30(maybe 10/2-like a TJ) position, as opposed to the factory JK 9/3 o'clock, which is better than being too low.

Verdict: She loves them! Quieted down her ride, plus should be much easier to operate, and no straps/bungees/zip-ties needed when disconnected :)

Hope this helps, and thanks for reading!

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## vballman

Awesome write up, thanks. It does help. Still waiting for that damn stimulus to come in. Soon as it does I'll get mine ordered up.

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## Rubicon

> Awesome write up, thanks. It does help. Still waiting for that damn stimulus to come in. Soon as it does I'll get mine ordered up.


 :Thumbsup:

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## vballman

Check finally came in, WOOHOO!!! Ok now to finally decide which to get. Shawn any update on Erin's thoughts on the Rough Country ones?

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## Rubicon

> Check finally came in, WOOHOO!!! Ok now to finally decide which to get. Shawn any update on Erin's thoughts on the Rough Country ones?


Finally!

Still quiet and look great, thus so far so good. Though still waiting for the C6 roads to firm up, as it is still muddy up here, so have not disconnected in the woods yet(just in the garage).

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## vballman

What does she have for a lift? I decided to just toss in an AEV 2" spacer for fun till I can do a good 2.5 cool lift down the road. Thinking a motorcycle this summer  instead,  compromise, something for both lol. Just wondering if they will work wthst lift.

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## Rubicon

> What does she have for a lift? I decided to just toss in an AEV 2" spacer for fun till I can do a good 2.5 cool lift down the road. Thinking a motorcycle this summer  instead,  compromise, something for both lol. Just wondering if they will work wthst lift.





> ....Story: *Erin has a leveling lift kit(2" front, 1" rear) and these were only listed for a 2.5" lift. However one site stated 0-2.5" and another 2.25"-3.75". So I figured it was close enough...*
> Adjustment: I went as short as allowable, which was 9" C-C. 10" end-end was instructed, but impossible as the shortest possible overall length was 10.25"). For a reference, we had the Steinhaeger ones set at 7" C-C...
> Verdict: She loves them! Quieted down her ride, plus should be much easier to operate, and no straps/bungees/zip-ties needed when disconnected :)
> Hope this helps, and thanks for reading!


Her lift is also a spacer(steel), though would rather have gone with urethane.

We are also looking for a motorcycle!(adventure-sport style ;)

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## vballman

> Her lift is also a spacer(steel), though would rather have gone with urethane.
> We are also looking for a motorcycle!(adventure-sport style ;)


Nice, mine has shipped so be excited to put it in. I just put my order in for the RC one, hopefully I have the same luck! I also got wheel spacers just incase until I do new wheels. 

I haven't done much adventure stuff on a bike. Had an on/off road dirt bike I first learned on that I ran through my ex father in laws tree farmer trails but that's about it. I'm a cruise and watch the scenery type on a bike. I wanna ride the coast line from NH to Key West mile marker 0. What a heck of a ride that would be.

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## Rubicon

> Nice, mine has shipped so be excited to put it in. I just put my order in for the RC one, hopefully I have the same luck! I also got *wheel spacers* just incase until I do new wheels.


 :Puke: 
I always seem to buy rigs with them mounted, and they are always the first thing to go! Much prefer factory wheels/offset, for many reason I have sated over the years.






> I haven't done much adventure stuff on a bike. Had an on/off road dirt bike I first learned on that I ran through my ex father in laws tree farmer trails but that's about it. I'm a cruise and watch the scenery type on a bike. I wanna ride the coast line from NH to Key West mile marker 0. What a heck of a ride that would be.


Any ride is a heck of a ride in my opinion ;)
But the "What Men Do" ride a few years back was truly...

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## vballman

> I always seem to buy rigs with them mounted, and they are always the first thing to go! Much prefer factory wheels/offset, for many reason I have sated over the years.


With the stock wheels and tires I was told I wouldn't need with with the AEV lift, but if I went with anything wider I would. So I figured some just incase couldn't hurt. I also heard may need them when off-roading, so I just want to be prepared till I can get a different wheel. Does Erin not need them with her lift? What is she running for her wheel/tire set up?

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## Rubicon

> With the stock wheels and tires I was told I wouldn't need with with the AEV lift, but if I went with anything wider I would. So I figured some just incase couldn't hurt. I also heard may need them when off-roading, so I just want to be prepared till I can get a different wheel. Does Erin not need them with her lift? What is she running for her wheel/tire set up?


Does not need them at all. And if I dislike them, she is definitely not going to have them, as I am my own AND her mechanic. Us mechanics don't like dealing them, or the issues they cause. If we are getting paid to deal with them...that is a different story ;)

She saved money by sticking with her perfectly good Sport S wheels, but went an inch taller with 255/80R17(Cooper S/T Maxx). Stock size was 255/75R17 with her package.

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## vballman

> She saved money by sticking with her perfectly good Sport S wheels, but went an inch taller with 255/80R17(Cooper S/T Maxx). Stock size was 255/75R17 with her package.


The stock size is what I have on the Willy's Wheels, but I too have a Sport S and was trying to save the cash on the wheels for now as well. I was told if I went to a 33x10.5 I would need them. For the little they cost, I got them for now just to be safe. Figured I would put the lift on and then check the clearance before doing much to be sure. But it does sound like I should be all set until I go with a different tire, so happy to hear that!

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## Rubicon

> The stock size is what I have on the Willy's Wheels, but I too have a Sport S and was trying to save the cash on the wheels for now as well. I was told if I went to a 33x10.5 I would need them. For the little they cost, I got them for now just to be safe. Figured I would put the lift on and then check the clearance before doing much to be sure. But it does sound like I should be all set until I go with a different tire, so happy to hear that!


255 = ~10"
Usually at 10.5" it will start to rub, but not bad enough to necessitate troublesome spacers ;)
If you want to sell the spacers, I know a 'fool' that might want them for the looks and to muddy up the side of his Jeep :(

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## Ivoryring

> 255 = ~10"
> Usually at 10.5" it will start to rub, but not bad enough to necessitate troublesome spacers ;)


On my JKU, I only ever ran 255 tires. For me both the stock 255/75r17 (SRA) and 255/80r17 (ST Maxx - same ones Erin has) would rub through the paint on the bend in the sway bar when wheeling - pretty much every time out they would be worn through. I never noticed noise or problems with it other than the worn away paint.

And by the way - Sport S wheels are the best deal you can find. Everyone wants to upgrade away from them, and I was able to buy sets of 5 several times to replace them when I'd break them - for about $35/wheel.

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## vballman

I still have my Sport S ones as well, using them on a trailer for now lol. 

I did find a set up tires that I am interested in 33 and 35 x 10.5. Would that be the smarter way to go than the wider tires?

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## Rubicon

> On my JKU, I only ever ran 255 tires. For me both the stock 255/75r17 (SRA) and 255/80r17 (ST Maxx - same ones Erin has) would rub through the paint on the bend in the sway bar when wheeling - pretty much every time out they would be worn through. I never noticed noise or problems with it other than the worn away paint...


Is that while still connected? Because she has only wheeled disconnected and never had an issue with her JK 2-door.






> ...I did find a set up tires that I am interested in 33 and 35 x 10.5. Would that be the smarter way to go than the wider tires?


I obviously think it is smarter, especially for use on the street. I always try to go for those two sizes when going to a larger LT tire.

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## Ivoryring

> Is that while still connected? Because she has only wheeled disconnected and never had an issue with her JK 2-door.


I can't say 'strictly only wheel disconnected 100% of the time', but certainly the vast majority of the time.

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## vballman

The 35x10.5r17 I'm looking is a load D, would that be alright with a 2dr? I tow as well so want to be sure that will be enough over a load E.

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## Rubicon

> The 35x10.5r17 I'm looking is a load D, would that be alright with a 2dr? I tow as well so want to be sure that will be enough over a load E.


Load D(8-ply), which is used for 3/4 ton trucks, so more than enough for what they call our 1/4 ton vehicles. Load E(10-ply) is for 1 tons with heavy loads, which makes Erin's LT tires too stiff and _very_ heavy over the P-metric(basically car tires) it came with. We have to keep the inflation down to the mid to high twenties range, just to wear properly and ride a little better, but it is still not what the lesser plies sidewalls gave. Wish they came in Load C, or even D would have been a bit better. However they have been lasting extremely good, with minimal need for rotations and no rebalancing needed at this point. They also work really well in the snow, on rock too, so great while going off-road.

Hope this helps!

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## J&J

> The 35x10.5r17 I'm looking is a load D, would that be alright with a 2dr? I tow as well so want to be sure that will be enough over a load E.


I just put 35x10.5R17 load D's on my 2 door. They were noticeably stiffer than the factory 32" C's at factory pressure, but at 30 psi the ride is comparable. That's about where they need to be on mine for even wear. I'm dialing in the pressure this weekend. I haven't towed with them yet, but with a few extra psi I have no doubt they will be fine.

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## Ivoryring

> I just put 35x10.5R17 load D's on my 2 door. They were noticeably stiffer than the factory 32" C's at factory pressure, but at 30 psi the ride is comparable. That's about where they need to be on mine for even wear. I'm dialing in the pressure this weekend. I haven't towed with them yet, but with a few extra psi I have no doubt they will be fine.


It is my understanding that the only thing the door placard for tire pressure is good for is the exact tire model that originally came on the vehicle. For any other tire you need to work it out yourself. On top of that, my hunch is that the tire pressure that is recommended is based on meeting fleet fuel targets for the EPA, not based on tire wear or passenger comfort - which is to say, it seems like the door listed pressure is much higher than it really should be based on wear (and for comfort I'd prefer it even lower still).

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## bob

> It is my understanding that the only thing the door placard for tire pressure is good for is the exact tire model that originally came on the vehicle. For any other tire you need to work it out yourself. On top of that, my hunch is that the tire pressure that is recommended is based on meeting fleet fuel targets for the EPA, not based on tire wear or passenger comfort - which is to say, it seems like the door listed pressure is much higher than it really should be based on wear (and for comfort I'd prefer it even lower still).


All this, I agree 100%. My Rubicon had the stock KM's, and the door card gave the same pressures as the SRA's on a Sport. Everyone knows what a fully inflated KM rides and wears like. 
As to C, D, and E, I can say my current E load Toyo OC ATIII tires ride much smoother than my E load BFG KO2's did on the same vehicle. That is because, while both are rated for E load, the Toyo has a 2 ply sidewall versus the 3 ply KO2.
That said, the Toyo has outperformed the BFG in every way and every season thus far.
There are approximately 8 billion things to look at when buying tires....

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## Rubicon

*The basic premise behind tire air pressure is load carrying capability, which is why there is a maximum pressure on the sidewall and then there is what you should be running the rest of the time. Chalk test can help achieve this.
*The construction of the tire mostly dictates how it wears.
*Ride/bump absorption is always better with lower pressure.
*Street handling/braking is always better at proper inflation, which is higher than you want to run for the previous quality. The latter is what the manufacturers door placard is after = safety and performance. They run cheaper construction OE tires for softer sidewalls to get a better ride, which makes them a very poor choice for off-road(sidewall slices). Factories care less about wear, as that doesn't become an issue until well after the sale.

*Also:* Plies/ratings are dependent on materials and thicknesses. So a three ply is not necessarily thicker or stiffer than a 2-ply sidewall.

I know it is a lot to take in and think about, but an educated decision is a smart choice with the price of tires nowadays.
Thanks for reading and hope this helps ;)

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## J&J

I wound up lower than I thought. 26 front, 28 rear. A comfortable ride.  :Marchmellow:

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## Rubicon

Funny how this got derailed to a tire pressure conversation. I blame Peter!

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## vballman

LOL I can take the blame, as after my question of rating, pressure was next. I wouldn't even have known where to start. Glad for all the advise and input.

These are the ones I am looking at:

https://automotive.kendatire.com/en-...oad/klever-rt/

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## Rubicon

> LOL I can take the blame, as after my question of rating, pressure was next. I wouldn't even have known where to start. Glad for all the advise and input.
> 
> These are the ones I am looking at:
> 
> https://automotive.kendatire.com/en-...oad/klever-rt/


LOL. Had those on my last Jeep. I would definitely buy them again.

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## J&J

> LOL I can take the blame, as after my question of rating, pressure was next. I wouldn't even have known where to start. Glad for all the advise and input.
> 
> These are the ones I am looking at:
> 
> https://automotive.kendatire.com/en-...oad/klever-rt/


And those are the ones I have. We had to be talking about the same tire. There's only one with those specs.  :Dancing2:

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## vballman

LOL wow that's too funny! Well sounds like they should be decent then. Thanks again for your help! Now to work on saving the cash :)

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## Rubicon

> LOL wow that's too funny! Well sounds like they should be decent then. Thanks again for your help! Now to work on saving the cash :)


 :Thumbsup:

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